Design Perspective: Second-hand Marketplaces
Please note: this article was originally published in Spanish in March 2025 for Petit Style Magazine.
Are second-hand marketplaces the answer?
The circular economy is booming. When it comes to fashion, we’re buying second-hand to support our environment and adopting a greener mindset. Second-hand clothing reduces the need for new production and associated emissions; on average, it avoids a significant amount of carbon dioxide emissions per item compared to buying new clothes.
Illustration by: Buttercrumble
Pre-loved fashion has always been a popular option for parents and their children, especially when siblings are involved. The youngest child will often receive hand-me-downs once their elder siblings outgrow them. It’s not uncommon for families and friends to swap clothes between children, as it helps meet the constant and costly need for replacements and supports environmental goals. Consequently, an item passed down through generations often increases in sentimental value and becomes a treasured heirloom.
Many brands are capitalising on these needs:
Petit Bateau now sells pre-loved items directly on its website and even offers a clothing rental service—an approach well-suited to children’s fashion, where pieces are typically worn for just a few months.
Vertbaudet launched (re)Vertbaudet, its own second-hand platform, and has also expanded into marketplaces, offering products that complement its main collection.
The main contender is Vinted, Europe's largest online marketplace for second-hand clothes. Initially, the company was burning millions of euros each year after starting in 2008. However, it's now Lithuania's first unicorn (a startup valued at over $1 billion). In 2023, they posted an annual profit for the first time, and continue to grow rapidly. It’s particularly popular in the UK, where the clothes resale market grew by 149% between 2016 and 2022 (GlobalData).
Yet, is it fueling overconsumption? Vinted is highly addictive, and the lure of new, low-priced clothing excites shoppers looking for their next retail fix. Impulse purchases are creating a cycle where items are purchased, worn once or twice, and quickly resold, fueling a fast fashion mindset under the guise of sustainability.
The increased cost of living (and childcare) means our budgets are tight, so of course, second-hand is a go-to for many. Yet, the (sometimes) incredibly low prices remove the financial barrier to excessive shopping. Unlike traditional second-hand shopping, where you browse racks in charity shops, Vinted’s algorithm constantly suggests new items, tempting users with deals they might not need. The justification? “It’s so cheap.”
Overconsumption, combined with shipping emissions and packaging waste, means that the sheer volume of goods circulated does not automatically make second-hand fashion sustainable.
Ultimately, second-hand shopping isn’t inherently good or bad—it depends on how we engage with it. It still provides a valuable alternative to fast fashion, particularly for children’s clothing. Pre-loved children's clothes meet a real need and extend the lifespan of garments that would otherwise be discarded. If approached thoughtfully (prioritising need over novelty) second-hand fashion can be part of a more sustainable future.
